Walking Tour of Ermita and Malate with Carlos Celdran

The Backgrounder 

I'm such a fan of Carlos Celdran, he's the most famous Old Manila tour guide where he conducts walking tours with performance art of Intramuros, CCP and Ermita/Malate areas. His tour rate is around P1k for adults and P600 for students. What's great about him is his barter tours, where you can give him anything - food, books or even items in exchange for the tour. I always wanted to see him in action and last June 28,  my dream finally came true with a barter tour of Ermita and Malate through EMBOA (Ermita Malate Business Owners' Association) and Viva Manila. 

I have fond memories of both places. Ermita being my neighborhood of 25 years, this is the only one I consider home. While Malate Catholic School was my beloved alma mater for 10 years. Growing up in the 90's, these areas were known as the seedy red light district littered with cheap bars so I felt ashamed of it somehow. It was only when I read about the Manila prewar history that I appreciated its rich cultural heritage. Daniel Burnham, the American architect and urban designer who made master plans for Chicago and Washington DC also made a grand plan for Manila. Back in the 1920s to 30s, Ermita and Malate were considered the Forbes Park or Ayala Alabang, home to the wealthy families of Nakpil, Guerrero and Ayala. Schools such as Ateneo de Manila, Assumption, Saint Paul were located in Ermita. After the war, these two areas were badly damaged and most affluent families transferred to other cities. 

The Tour

My son Riley and I registered at Malate Pensionne around 3pm. I brought old books for the barter. Carlos invited everyone, all 220 of us - a mix of foreigners and locals to sing the national anthem. I swear I got goosebumps. He then introduced the pensionne owner and he talked about the property. The original building was built during the U.S. Commonwealth period. It used to be called Dakota Apartments. It was converted into a pensionne house in 1974. We took a tour inside the rooms and room rate is around P2k with breakfast for two. 

We then proceeded to Remedios Circle where Carlos gave a brief lecture on Burham and his master plan for Manila. Malate is also famous for its church built in 1591 in honor of Nuestra Senora de los Remedios. The church is currently undergoing major renovation. I was also delighted to tell Riley about Malate Catholic School who will celebrate its centennial anniversary on 2017. 

Carlos instructed the group to take a jeep and go to Tesoro's along Mabini Street near Padre Faura. Founded in 1945, Tesoro's is the place for authentic quality Philippine handicrafts. He also said there's a 20% off for those who will purchase items there. I like the intricate designs of the souvenirs and the miniature tricycles. 

1335 Gallery is a space for contemporary art and supports artistic creation through diverse exhibitions, workshops, lectures and artist-in-residence programs. The multimedia presentations were interesting for me since it was my first time to see these types of exhibits. 

Next stop is the Lotus Garden Hotel, The Marilo Wing is an old art deco apartment used by the Americans in the 1950's. It was refurbished and now an extension of the hotel. Room rate is around P2,200 twin sharing. 

An abandoned old building was pointed out by Carlos as a property of GSIS and this might be demolished anytime to give way for another condominium I bet. Such a sad state for our urban buildings, the local government don't seem to care about preserving these gems. 

Along Arquiza Street is F. Sionil Jose's ancestral house. He is a National Artist for Literature and has a bookshop in Faura Street called La Solidaridad. I still need to visit that store and buy his "Ermita" book. 

Further down the street is Hizon's Bakeshop and  Za's Cafe. It is popular to its yummy ensaymada and other pastries plus it was Dolphy's favorite cafe. Another must try restaurant on my to do list. I passed by this place so many times going to Robinson's Manila but still never entered it until now. 

This renovated structure that's still in the works was home to the original Filipino rock and roll. It used to be a famous bar back in the 70s. It is in Engracia near Orosa Street. 

The 1948 old Supreme Court building was built in 1933 and originally part of the UP Manila campus. Another building along P. Faura Street was built in 1930. 

The Philam Life building in UN Avenue corner Orosa St. was made in 1961. This landmark structure also housed the Philam Life Theater which has the best acoustics space in the country. I am proud to say that I once performed here during the Center for Pop Music Phils. show back in 1998. The property was bought by SM and hopefully they will preserve it. 

Hiraya Gallery was established in 1980 and welcomes unknown new artists and offers refuge for unpopular ones. My close friend Jenny used to work here. 

The Miramar Hotel was built in the late 1930s in the art deco style. It used to be a serviced apartment run by the Japanese and converted to Miramar Inn after the war. 

Beside Miramar, is Bel-Air Apartments, designed by National Artist Pablo Antonio in 1933 and also survived World War 2. My parents worked here since the 1960s and we made it our home until 2004. It has 9 stories and residents include politicians, celebrities as well as foreigners. The rooms are spacious with a great view of Manila Bay and Luneta. My dream project is to gather photos and research material of this building together with my father. d

Back to Miramar Hotel, it has a sky roof with lovely lounge areas for guests. 

The Luneta Hotel, first opened in 1918 and designed by Spanish architect-engineer Salvador Farre. Society's elite and foreign dignitaries frequent this place during its heyday. It was neglected in the 80's after the Marcos era. The good news is that it re-opened in 2014 and the grand dame is back. 

The tour ended with a selfie group shot in Rizal monument together with Torre de Manila, the country's photobomber which drew a lot of protests. The Rizal memorial is the work of Swiss sculptor Richard Kissling who cast the the bronze figure in Switzerland. It was completed in 1917. Rizal and fathers Gomez, Burgos and Zamora were executed in Luneta. Today, Rizal Park is constantly being improved and provided with cctv cameras for added security. It is one of the last remaining green spaces in the metro. 

Information of some landmarks were lifted from the EMBOA tour flyer. 

For details, please visit www.emboa.com.ph 

For Carlos' tour schedule, visit http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/

A Definitive Guide to Manila Ocean Park

Here's what you need to know if you plan to take a trip to Manila Ocean Park, the first marine themed park in the country. 

How to Go 

It's located at the back of Quirino Grandstand in Luneta Manila. For a detailed map: https://www.manilaoceanpark.com/main/maps/

To those who will commute, you can take the LRT, alight from UN Station and get a pedicab at P30 per head. You can also take a jeep going to Kalaw and walk 15 minutes to Quirino Grandstand. 

Entrance Fees

MOP offers package rates ranging from P580 to P900 per head depending on the number of attractions that you want to see. They don't offer individual rates of attractions. You can also check out year round promos and buy vouchers at www.manilaoceanpark.com or www.metrodeal.com for online specials. They currently have Araw ng Maynila and birthday promos. Children 2 feet and below are free of charge. Above 2 feet, adult rates shall apply. They accept cash and credit card transactions. 

Park Rules

Food and drinks are not allowed to be brought inside the park. You can buy from the restaurants and food outlets inside. For the list of these establishments visit https://www.manilaoceanpark.com/main/amenities/dining. There are food kiosks for those who have limited budget. There is Filipino menu lunch buffet at Liquid Pool and Lounge for only P250 per head from 11am to 3:30pm daily. 

Flash photography is not allowed in the aquariums for the benefit of the fishes but you can take photos and videos. There is no dress code, you can wear any comfortable attire. Winter jackets are provided in Trails to Antarctica's Snow Village. 

Best Time to Go

The ideal day to go is always on weekdays like Monday to Thursday if you want less crowd, more time to meander and appreciate the attractions. Best time to go to the park is at 2pm onwards since the musical fountain show (Symphony) only has one schedule at 6:30 pm. 4 hours are enough to see the sights. It's best to know the show schedules of the following so you won't miss them:

Sea Lion Show - 2pm, 3pm & 5pm

Penguin Talk Show - 10am to 7pm (every 30 minutes)

All Star Bird Show - 1:15pm and 4:15pm

Symphony Evening Show - 6:30pm 

Please do not attempt to go during Christmas or within the holiday period due to the volume of people. Also if you see field trips or corporate events at the gate, you can choose to go at another time. 

The rest of the attractions such as the Oceanarium, Trails to Antarctica, Fish Spa, Jellies Exhibit, the Amazing Stories of Yexel's Museum, Glass Bottom Boat Ride, Back of the House etc. are open during the entire day, weekdays from 10am to 7pm and weekends 9am to 7pm. Bird of Prey Kingdom is open from 10am to 6pm. 

Oceanarium underwater tunnel 

Moon Jellies 

All Star Bird Show 

Attractions

For a description of what to see, you can check it here: https://www.manilaoceanpark.com/main/attractions/page/attraction. If you ask me, my top 5 are Oceanarium for its stunning fishes and underwater tunnel, Jellies Exhibit is still my personal favorite because of its mesmerizing dancing sea fairies, Sea Lion Show because of their funny antics, Trails to Antarctica for its adorable Humboldt penguins (you can feed them fish up close at P250 for two and get a souvenir photo) and Symphony Evening Show - dancing fountains and water screens to dazzle your night. 

Trails to Antarctica Penguin Exhibit

Amazing Stories of Yexel's Museum

Birds of Prey Kingdom brahminy kites

Encounters 

If you want to try an extreme adventure in the city, it's a must to do Aquanaut at P1,500 per head inclusive of use of wetsuit, shower area, orientation with diver guide. It's a 10 minute underwater walk at the Oceanarium's main tank or at the Giant Grouper tank. You don't need to be a swimmer or be a diver to do this activity since you can breathe freely with the specialized helmet. 

Aquanaut 

The Sharks and Rays Encounter provides half body (P800 per head) and full body (P1,500) interaction with various stingrays and nurse sharks in the outdoor pool. It's a 30 minute session with a guide. Schedule is at 10:15 am and 2:45 pm. You need to bring your own swimwear. Photo packages are available. No personal photography allowed. 

Sharks & Rays Encounter

The Mermaid Swim Experience is at P1,500 with 4R photo (no personal photography allowed). Bring your own swimwear and a guide will teach you how to glide underwater like a real sea siren and pose ala Dyesebel. It's 30 minutes in the pool for this activity. Pool is open from 10am to 5pm. 

Mermaid Swim Experience

Hotel and Spa 

For those who wish to sleep with fishes, there's Hotel H2O - the first marine themed hotel in the country with its aquarium rooms, park view rooms and bay view rooms. It is located in the 3rd level of the park complex. They have ongoing deals in online sites too. The hotel also has function rooms for various events. The Pacific function room is located near the Oceanarium with a view of the underwater tunnel and can accommodate 100 pax. Zenyu Eco Spa at the 3rd level offers hot bed treatment, facial and massage. For details, see http://www.hotelh2ophilippines.com/

Restaurants and Bars 

Nightlife is fun with White Moon Bar facing the bay, located at the 2nd level. It is open from 6pm onwards, perfect for the sunset watch. There's also the Club Lounge at the 3rd level for intimate acoustic acts and chill out time. Liquid Pool and Lounge is open at night as well beside the pool area near the park entrance. Makan Makan Asian Food Village is your ultimate Singaporean and Chinese food fix located at the 2nd level. 

If you haven't been here at least once or your last visit was 2009, please go. There are lots of attractions to see now and it's still cheaper than going abroad. You will sure to find Nemo and more. 

What Gets You Hooked in Kawit, Cavite

Much has been said about Emilio Aguinaldo and his role in Philippine history. Some say he was the reason for Bonifacio's death or that old age dampened his heroism. But all will agree that his mansion is an amazing historical and architectural marvel.  If only all heritage houses can be preserved like this one. I have a love affair with old "bahay na bato" structures. Thanks to heritage conservation organizations, I get to appreciate these treasures via online and when possible on heritage walks.

What is intriguing about this house is there are a lot of secret passages and other interesting features related to Aguinaldo's active role in the Katipunan. There are tour guides in the house and can provide detailed information (just give a tip for their efforts).

the famous balcony 

Philippine map on ceiling 

Sinful terrace - where the Katipunan details were plotted

Seats with firearm secret storage

indoor swimming pool 

Aguinaldo Shrine has free entrance and is open from Tuesdays to Sundays except on holidays from 8am to 4pm. Bus to Kawit is at P30 to P40, Bus terminal is located in Macapagal corner Coastal Road.

A few blocks away from the shrine is St. Mary Magdalene Church or Kawit Church, Founded in 1737. this church was the venue of Aguinaldo's baptism. It is where the miraculous image of St. Mary Magdalene is enshrined. It was damaged during the second world war but got restored in 1990. 

Cavite is also the birthplace of extraordinary Filipinos namely Julian Felipe - the composer of our national anthem and Ladislao Diwa - Philippine revolutionary fighter and first governor of the province.